Fulham hospitality

Fulham are the Premier League's aristocratic eccentric, a club founded in 1879 (making them the oldest in London) that has spent its 145-year history embodying a particular kind of upmarket, slightly bohemian west London charm. The Cottagers play at Craven Cottage on the banks of the Thames, the only Premier League ground where you can arrive by riverboat and where one stand is literally a listed Victorian pavilion. The footballing identity is harder to pin down than most: Fulham have been everything from Third Division also-rans to Europa League finalists, and the club's history is dotted with idiosyncratic moments, from Johnny Haynes becoming the first hundred-pound-a-week footballer in the early 1960s, to the Mohamed Al Fayed era of the 2000s when Michael Jackson statues and Premier League survival went hand in hand. Great players have always passed through, from Haynes and George Cohen (the only World Cup winner in the club's history) to more recent crowd favourites who turned the Cottage into a riverside fortress. The supporter base reflects the neighbourhood: well-travelled, knowledgeable, less tribal than most London clubs and famously polite, although the rivalries with Chelsea and QPR still bite. The style of play has shifted across eras but the modern Fulham tends towards possession football suited to a tight pitch and an old-fashioned ground. For visiting fans, a Cottage matchday combines genuine football heritage with one of the most attractive corners of London. Front Row Breaks packages pair tickets with central London hotels and riverside itineraries.

Craven Cottage is the most picturesque ground in the Premier League, sitting directly on the north bank of the Thames in Bishop's Park, with rowing boats sliding past behind the Putney End and the spire of All Saints church framing the skyline. Opened in 1896, it has a capacity of around 29,600 following the redevelopment of the Riverside Stand, which now includes a rooftop walkway and members' pool overlooking the river. The Grade II listed Cottage pavilion in the corner is unique in English football, used as the players' changing rooms and a directors' viewing balcony. The Johnny Haynes Stand, the oldest surviving football stand in the country (dating from 1905 and designed by Archibald Leitch), gives the ground its real heritage value. The loudest home support gathers in the Hammersmith End, while away fans get the Putney End with full view of the river beyond. Sightlines are good throughout, although the older stands have the usual restricted-view pillars in places. The concourses are tight; arrive early.

Fulham is one of the most desirable corners of west London, a riverside neighbourhood that combines genuine village character with the polish of serious money. The walk from Putney Bridge tube down through Bishop's Park to the ground, with the Thames on one side and rowing clubs on the other, is one of the best pre-match approaches in English football. Fulham Palace, the former home of the Bishops of London, sits next to the park and is worth half an hour before kick-off. The Fulham Road and New King's Road are stuffed with good pubs, gastros and bistros, while Parsons Green and Hurlingham offer pretty squares and old-school boozers. Across the river, Putney is equally rewarding, with the famous start line of the Boat Race, riverside pubs (the Duke's Head, the Half Moon) and easy access back into central London. The neighbourhood feels genuinely affluent without being sterile, and the riverside walk between Putney and Hammersmith bridges is one of London's great strolls.

Putney Bridge, on the District line, is the closest tube and around a ten-minute walk through Bishop's Park to the Cottage. Hammersmith, slightly further but with Piccadilly, District and Hammersmith & City lines, is the better option for getting away after the match. Putney mainline station, across the river, is fifteen minutes on foot and serves South Western trains to Waterloo. For something different, the Thames Clipper riverboat runs to Putney Pier on matchdays, which is the most enjoyable arrival in London football. Driving is pointless: residential parking restrictions cover everything within a mile. Pre-match drinks are best taken in Putney (the Duke's Head, the Eight Bells) or along the New King's Road in Parsons Green (the White Horse, known as the Sloaney Pony). After the whistle, Bishop's Park funnels everyone towards Putney Bridge tube, which gets very busy; walking to Hammersmith usually saves twenty minutes.